Camino Stage 2: Day 4 Gargilesse to la Chapelle Baloue

I woke to find that day was dawning on thick fog. My hostess gave a good breakfast and some food for the road and I left at 08.45. By now the fog was lifting a bit, but it was quite cold out. Here is la Domaine du Haur Verger

After half an hour's walking down to the river and then up the other side I was quite wet all over, but it was evident that the sun would eventually burn off the fog.

And so it proved. The day started to warm up and it was a perfect autumn walking day in absolutely stunning countryside. Some was on roads, but much was on bridle ways. 

After a while the way plunged down a vertiginous rocky path which needed careful navigation, but emerged on the banks of a mirror smooth Creuse. A few kilometers later and yet another stiff climb brought me to Eguzon and lunch. Thirteen kilometers in and, the book said, thirteen more to go. 

I was a few Kms into my afternoon's walk when I caught up with Cécile, a very experienced pilgrim (Compostela four times by various routes, and Rome), and a charming French lady of a certain age, who declared that when gets into a rut at home she just takes out her rucksack and hits the road. We agreed to walk together, and did so with bursts of conversation and lots of silent companionship. She told me that the Départment we were in was one of the poorest in France. Also that it was the season for gathering sweet chestnuts, and indeed I saw several groups out gathering them. Besides roasting them, some people use them to make flour.

More ferocious descents and ascents brought us to Crozant with its massive fortress ruins towering over the river Creuse. Six more kilometers and we were in La Chapelle Baloue. 

By now we were both tired, and when I checked Strava was amazed to see we had walked all but 30 Kms. We found our lodgings for the night, an exceedingly quirky hyper eco pilgrim refuge, with an interior dry toilet. But we had been told we could rifle the garden for veg, and, with what we had, we managed a decent supper for four ( two more pilgrims had joined us).

I had hoped I might find Mass being said somewhere, but this was a vain hope, and I contented myself with having a day of thankfulness, and holding in prayer all those whose very lives as well as their security are threatened. I lit a candle for Philip at Crozant, and was thankful for so many blessings friends have brought me in life. 

I hope I sleep well in a room with strangers, and I very much hope I don't snore (recorded evidence exists from a choir visit to Pisa).